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E-Bike Parts: chargers, batteries, controllers, brakes, tires and more

Replacement parts are where mistakes get expensive. Each category explains how to identify what you have (voltage, connector, size, mount) before you buy. If your bike is misbehaving and you are not sure which part is at fault, start with an E-Bike Assessment instead of guessing.

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All e-bike parts

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Mountain bike drivetrain components

E-Bike Chains

KMC e8 E-Bike Chain (8-Speed)

KMC's e-series chains are built for the extra torque a mid-drive motor puts through the drivetrain, with thicker, stronger plates and pins than a standard chain of the same speed. The e8 is the 8-speed version and also works on most 7-speed systems with 7-speed cog spacing. If you have a Bafang BBS02, BBSHD or a production mid-drive bike (Bosch, Shimano STEPS, Bafang M-series) with an 8-speed cassette, this is the chain to buy when the old one measures worn. It will not make a hub-motor bike faster, but it will not hurt either.

Best for: Mid-drive e-bikes with 8-speed cassettes · BBS02/BBSHD conversions · Heavy riders who break standard chains

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E-Bike Chains

KMC Z7 Chain (6/7/8-Speed)

The KMC Z7 (formerly labeled Z51) is the standard replacement chain for 6-, 7- and 8-speed drivetrains, which covers most hub-motor e-bikes. It is an inexpensive chain that includes a reusable quick link, so installation needs only a chain breaker to size it. On an e-bike the chain carries only your pedaling load with a hub motor, so a basic chain like this lasts well; with a mid-drive you should step up to an e-bike-rated chain. Measure your old chain for length and replace the freewheel if the old chain was badly worn.

Best for: 7-speed hub-motor e-bikes · Budget drivetrain refreshes · Riders who want a quick-link install

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E-Bike Displays

KT-LCD8H Color E-Bike Display

The KT-LCD8H is KT's color display for the same controllers that run the LCD3. It has a brighter, higher-contrast screen, a built-in button pad, a USB charging port on most versions, and the same parameter menus under the hood. For a KT kit it is the nicer upgrade, and it is the one to buy if you are replacing a broken display anyway. The screen is more prone to glare than the LCD3 in direct sun, and the integrated buttons mean the whole unit mounts near the stem rather than splitting display and pad.

Best for: Upgrading a KT-LCD3 to a color display · Replacing a broken KT display on a kit bike · Riders who want a USB charging port on the bars

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Mid-Drive Components

Lekkie Bling Ring 42T Chainring for Bafang BBS02/BBSHD

The stock Bafang chainring sits far outboard, which gives many BBS02 and BBSHD builds a poor chainline and extra chain wear. Lekkie's Bling Ring is the popular fix: a machined aluminum narrow-wide chainring that moves the teeth inboard to improve chainline and holds the chain better off-road. It comes in several tooth counts; 42T is a common all-round choice that lowers gearing a bit from the stock 46T for better climbing. Make sure you buy the version for your motor — BBS02 and BBSHD use different spiders.

Best for: BBS02B and BBSHD riders chasing a straighter chainline · Hilly terrain where a smaller ring helps · Anyone replacing a worn stock steel ring

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Brake Levers

Mechanical Brake Levers with Motor Cut-Off Sensor, Pair (generic)

Cut-off brake levers are the standard way hub-motor kits stop the motor the instant you brake: a small switch in the lever sends a signal to the controller when you pull. Generic pairs come with either a 2-pin Julet waterproof plug or a small SM plug and work with mechanical disc and rim brakes (V-brake pull on most). They are a cheap safety upgrade for kits that shipped without cut-offs and a straightforward replacement when a lever switch fails. If your bike has hydraulic brakes, you want a sensor add-on or hydraulic levers instead.

Best for: Hub-motor conversion kits with mechanical brakes · Replacing a failed cut-off lever on a kit bike · Adding motor cut-off to a kit that came without it

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Hydraulic Brake Components

Mineral Oil Hydraulic Brake Bleed Kit for Shimano/Tektro/Magura (generic)

Bleeding hydraulic brakes at home is a reasonable job for an e-bike owner, and the generic bleed kit makes it possible: two syringes, hoses, a bleed cup and a bag of adapters that thread into Shimano, Tektro and Magura levers and calipers. Most kits are sold with or without a small bottle of mineral oil. It pays to get a kit that includes the Shimano funnel and the M5/M6 fittings for Tektro calipers, since those are what most e-bikes have. Follow the manufacturer's bleed procedure; each brand differs slightly.

Best for: Owners of Shimano, Tektro or Magura mineral-oil brakes · Fixing spongy levers or after shortening a hose · Riders who want to do annual brake maintenance themselves

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Grips

ODI Rogue Lock-On Grips

ODI's Rogue is a thick, soft lock-on grip from the brand that made lock-ons standard, and it suits e-bike riders who want more cushion than a thin grip without the wing shape of an ergonomic model. The large diameter fills bigger hands, the rubber is tacky when wet, and the aluminum clamps stop it from spinning — a real issue on throttle bikes where a stock grip slowly rotates. They come in a standard 130 mm length; if your bike has a twist throttle or shifter, the grip on that side will need to be cut or you will need a shorter version.

Best for: Riders with larger hands or who want a thicker grip · Replacing stock grips that rotate · Wet-weather riders

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Spokes & Nipples

Park Tool SW-7.2 Triple Spoke Wrench

A spoke wrench is the one tool that makes the difference between a wobbly wheel you ride around on and one you fix in the garage. Park Tool's SW-7.2 covers three common nipple sizes in a single hardened tool, which matters on e-bikes because hub-motor wheels often use larger nipples than the rest of the bike. It is not a precision truing stand, but combined with a zip tie on the fork as a gauge, it will get a rubbing wheel straight again. The three-in-one format is the right one to own if you only own one.

Best for: Truing a rubbing wheel at home · Tightening loose spokes on a new hub-motor wheel · Riders who want one wrench for several bikes

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Pedals

Race Face Chester Composite Platform Pedals

The Chester is the default recommendation for anyone who wants a big, grippy flat pedal without spending much. The nylon composite body is wide, the replaceable pins bite into sneakers, and the sealed bearings shrug off weather. On an e-bike the stock pedals are often tiny and slippery, and a pair of Chesters is one of the cheapest comfort upgrades there is. They are offered in many colors and use the standard 9/16-inch thread found on nearly all adult bikes; install with an 8 mm hex key from the back of the crank arm.

Best for: Replacing slippery stock pedals on any adult e-bike · Riders who ride in sneakers · Wet-weather commuters

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Close-up of bicycle gears and chain

Mid-Drive Components

Replacement Speed Sensor and Magnet for Bafang BBS02/BBSHD (generic)

The speed sensor on a Bafang mid-drive is a small magnet-sensing puck that mounts on the chainstay with a spoke magnet passing it. When the magnet drifts or the sensor lead gets snagged, the display shows an error or stops reporting speed and the motor may cut out. The replacement is cheap and takes ten minutes. Aftermarket listings sell a compatible sensor with the Bafang-style plug plus a spoke magnet; confirm the plug matches the one on your motor's harness (the common one is a small round waterproof connector).

Best for: BBS02/BBSHD riders with a speed sensor error or zero speed reading · Replacing a damaged sensor cable after a crash · Keeping a spare in the toolbox

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Handlebars & Stems

Riser Handlebar, 31.8 mm, Swept-Back Comfort (generic)

Swapping a flat bar for a riser with a bit of back-sweep brings the grips up and toward you, relaxing the wrists and shoulders; on a commuter e-bike it can be the difference between a bike you ride and one you avoid. Generic alloy risers with 31.8 mm center clamps, around 680 mm width and 40–60 mm of rise are widely sold. The 22.2 mm grip sections accept standard grips, levers, shifters and throttles. Moving controls over is an afternoon job; be ready for cables and the display lead to come up short if you go much higher.

Best for: Riders who want a more upright position than a flat bar gives · Commuters with wrist and shoulder discomfort · Replacing a bent bar

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E-Bike Tires

Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700x38C

The Marathon Plus is the tire people buy when they are done fixing flats. Its thick SmartGuard belt is the reference for puncture resistance, and the 700x38C size fits most 700c commuter and hybrid e-bikes with room to spare. It is an e-bike-rated tire, heavy, stiff to mount, and not especially fast, but it shrugs off glass, wire and goathead thorns that would flatten a lighter tire. For a commuter who rides every day on city streets and does not want to think about tires, it is hard to argue with.

Best for: 700c commuter and hybrid e-bikes · Riders who get frequent flats from glass and thorns · Daily commuters who value reliability over speed

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E-Bike Tires

Schwalbe Super Moto-X 27.5x2.40 E-Bike Tire

The Super Moto-X is Schwalbe's heavy-duty balloon tire for fast, heavy e-bikes, and it is one of the few 27.5-inch tires that combines a smooth, quick-rolling tread with a serious puncture belt and an e-bike speed rating. It is a common original-equipment tire on premium commuters and a popular upgrade on mid-range 27.5 hardtail-style e-bikes that came with knobbies. The wide 2.40 casing soaks up rough pavement. It is heavier and pricier than a basic tire, but owners tend to replace it with another one, which says a lot.

Best for: 27.5-inch commuter and hybrid e-bikes · Riders who want comfort and puncture protection on pavement · Replacing knobby tires on a street-ridden hardtail e-bike

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Replacement Screens

Screen Protector Film for KT-LCD3 / LCD8H Displays (generic)

E-bike displays live in the worst spot on the bike for scratches and sun, and the plastic lens on budget displays scuffs and hazes quickly. A cut-to-size film or tempered protector keeps the lens readable and is cheap insurance. Sellers list pre-cut protectors for the common KT displays (LCD3, LCD8H) and for several Bafang screens; for anything else, a generic cut-to-fit phone film works just as well. Clean the lens with alcohol, apply in a dust-free room, and squeegee out the bubbles. Replace when it yellows.

Best for: KT-LCD3 and LCD8H owners · Bikes parked in the sun · Anyone whose display lens is already scuffed and wants to stop further damage

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Derailleurs

Shimano Altus RD-M310 7/8-Speed Rear Derailleur

The Altus M310 is a step up from Tourney and the common derailleur on 8-speed e-bikes; it also works with 7-speed shifters, which makes it a popular upgrade when a TY300 dies. It mounts to a standard derailleur hanger (no claw version), handles up to a 34T cog, and shifts noticeably crisper than Tourney. It is still inexpensive. If your bike uses a direct-mount claw bracket, you will need an adapter or to stay with Tourney. Replace the shift cable at the same time and check the hanger alignment.

Best for: 8-speed e-bikes needing a replacement derailleur · 7-speed bikes with a standard hanger that want crisper shifting · Riders running a 34T low cog

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E-Bike Brake Pads

Shimano B05S Resin Disc Brake Pads

The Shimano B-series resin pad (B01S, B03S, and the current B05S) fits the two-piston hydraulic calipers found on a huge number of commuter and entry-level mountain bikes, including many e-bikes with Shimano MT200, MT400 and Deore M6000-class brakes. Resin pads are quiet and have strong initial bite, which suits stop-and-go riding, but they wear quickly on heavy bikes in hilly areas. They are cheap enough to keep a spare set on hand. If your bike has four-piston Shimano calipers, you need the D-series pad instead.

Best for: E-bikes with Shimano MT200/MT400/MT500 and similar two-piston hydraulic calipers · Commuters who value quiet brakes · Quick, cheap pad replacement

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Cranksets

Shimano BB-UN300 Square Taper Bottom Bracket

The UN300 is the sealed-cartridge square-taper bottom bracket Shimano sells as the successor to the long-running UN55 and UN26, and it is the right replacement for the creaking, gritty bottom bracket on most hub-motor e-bikes. It comes in several shell widths (68 and 73 mm are common) and spindle lengths, so you need to measure or read the old unit. Installation needs a splined bottom-bracket tool. Once in, it is a fit-and-forget part — which is exactly what you want on a commuter that gets ridden in the rain.

Best for: Fixing a creaking or loose bottom bracket on a square-taper bike · Pairing with a new square-taper crankset · Hub-motor e-bikes with standard threaded shells

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Close-up of bicycle gears and chain

Cassettes

Shimano CS-HG200-7 7-Speed Cassette 12-32T

Many 7-speed e-bikes with a cassette freehub (rather than a thread-on freewheel) use this exact Shimano part or a close equivalent, and it is the cheapest genuine Shimano replacement. The 12-32 range gives a usable low gear for assisted climbing and a top gear that will not spin out at class-2 speeds. Cassettes wear together with chains, so if your chain is stretched, replace both. Before ordering, confirm that your rear hub is a freehub with a lockring and splines; if your cogs thread onto the hub, you need a freewheel instead.

Best for: 7-speed e-bikes with a Shimano-style freehub · Replacing a worn cassette alongside a new chain · Budget drivetrain refreshes

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Mountain bike drivetrain components

Cassettes

Shimano CS-HG400-9 9-Speed Cassette 11-34T

Mid-priced e-bikes frequently ship with a 9-speed Shimano Alivio or Acera drivetrain, and the HG400-9 in 11-34 is the standard replacement cassette. The 34-tooth low gear is a real help on hills if you prefer to keep the assist low, and the 11-tooth top is enough for fast flats. It is an inexpensive, durable cassette and the right partner for an e-bike-rated 9-speed chain. As with any cassette swap, confirm you have a freehub body, and budget for a lockring tool and chain whip if you do not have them.

Best for: 9-speed Shimano-equipped e-bikes · Riders who want a lower climbing gear than stock · Drivetrain refreshes with a new chain

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Hydraulic Brake Components

Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake Mineral Oil, 100 ml

Shimano's own mineral oil is what goes in any Shimano hydraulic brake, and it is also commonly used by owners of Tektro and Magura brakes after checking compatibility. The 100 ml bottle is enough for several bleeds on a two-brake bike. The important thing to know is that mineral oil and DOT fluid are not interchangeable; putting DOT in a mineral-oil brake ruins the seals. If your levers say Shimano, Tektro or Magura they almost certainly take mineral oil, but read the lever cap. Keep the bottle sealed and away from heat.

Best for: Bleeding Shimano hydraulic brakes · Riders with Tektro or Magura mineral-oil systems who have confirmed compatibility · Anyone refreshing spongy brakes on an e-bike

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Mountain bike drivetrain components

Derailleurs

Shimano SL-TX50 7-Speed Thumb Shifter (Right)

The SL-TX50 is the simple thumb shifter that comes on many 7-speed e-bikes, especially ones with a twist throttle on the right that leaves no room for a grip shifter. It is a right-hand, 7-click indexed shifter with an optical gear indicator, and it clamps onto a 22.2 mm bar. When the index gets sloppy or the lever breaks, this is the cheap, direct replacement. Shifters are sold with a cable, which you should install new; most shifting problems on budget e-bikes are cable friction rather than the shifter itself.

Best for: 7-speed e-bikes with a broken or worn thumb shifter · Bikes where a twist shifter conflicts with a twist throttle · Budget replacements

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Brake Rotors

Shimano SM-RT56 180 mm 6-Bolt Disc Rotor

The SM-RT56 is Shimano's workhorse 6-bolt rotor, found on piles of entry and mid-level bikes and sold everywhere as a replacement. The 180 mm size is a good match for the front of a commuter e-bike and is what many 160 mm-equipped bikes upgrade to for more stopping power. One important detail: the RT56 is specified for resin pads only, so if you run sintered metallic pads you should choose a different rotor. It is a plain stamped steel rotor without a cooling fin or alloy carrier, which is exactly why it is inexpensive and durable.

Best for: Replacing a bent or worn 6-bolt rotor on an e-bike with resin pads · Upgrading a front brake from 160 to 180 mm (with a caliper adapter) · Riders who want a Shimano-quality rotor at a low price

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Derailleurs

Shimano Tourney RD-TY300 6/7-Speed Rear Derailleur

The Tourney TY300 is the derailleur on an enormous number of 7-speed e-bikes, and it is what you buy when the original gets bent by a fall or a stick. It is cheap, easy to set up, and available in a few mounting styles: a direct-mount version with a bracket (claw) for bikes without a hanger and a standard-hanger version. Before ordering, look at how your old derailleur attaches. It shifts fine for a 7-speed hub-motor bike and pairs with the stock thumb or trigger shifters; just expect to replace the cable at the same time.

Best for: 7-speed hub-motor e-bikes with a bent or broken derailleur · Budget like-for-like replacements · Riders who want a part that matches the stock shifter

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Electric bike handlebar and display detail

Replacement Screens

Silicone Protective Cover for Bafang 500C / 850C Displays (generic)

Bafang's 500C and 850C color displays are popular on mid-drive kits and a number of production e-bikes, and both have an exposed plastic face that scratches easily and bakes in the sun. A molded silicone sleeve wraps the display body, leaves the screen and buttons accessible, and adds a bit of bump and rain protection. It is a ten-second install. These covers are display-specific, so buy the one for your exact model; the 500C and 850C are different shapes. It will not stop a direct hit, but it stops the daily scuffing.

Best for: Bafang 500C and 850C display owners · Bikes locked outside or carried on car racks · Riders who want a cheap bit of weather protection

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Quick finders

Jump straight to what fits your bike

Find a charger by battery voltage

The charger must match the pack: 36V → 42.0V, 48V → 54.6V, 52V → 58.8V output.

36V (1)48V (2)52V (1)

Find a battery by voltage

Match voltage first, then mount style and connector.

36V (1)48V (1)52V (1)

Find a controller by voltage

Controllers and displays are usually paired — confirm the protocol.

Find a tire by size

Size is printed on the sidewall (e.g. 20×4.0, 26×4.0, 27.5×2.4, 700×38c).

20x4 (1)26x4 (1)27.5 (1)700c (1)

Find a tube by size

Match the tire size and the valve type (Schrader vs Presta).

20x4 (1)26 (1)26x4 (1)700c (1)

Brake pads by brake type

Pad shape depends on the caliper model — check yours before ordering.

By connector / plug

XT60, Anderson, Julet/Higo, DC barrel, XLR…

julet (3)xlr-3-pin (2)dc-barrel-5.5x2.1 (1)dc-barrel (1)julet-3-pin (1)xt60 (1)anderson (1)

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E-Bike Parts by category

Grouped the way a shop is organized. Each category page has buying notes, compatibility tips and its own filters.

Electrical10 categories

E-Bike Batteries

Replacement and spare lithium packs — match voltage, mount and connector.

E-Bike Battery Chargers

Replacement chargers — voltage, amperage and plug type must match your pack.

E-Bike Controllers

The brain between battery, motor, throttle and display.

E-Bike Displays

LCD/LED displays and replacement screens matched to your controller protocol.

E-Bike Motors

Replacement hub and mid-drive motors and conversion kits.

Hub Motors

Front and rear geared/direct-drive hub motors and wheel kits.

Mid-Drive Components

Chainrings, kits and service parts for mid-drive systems.

Wiring Harnesses

Main cables and extension harnesses for display, throttle and brake sensors.

Connectors & Plugs

XT60/XT90, Anderson, Julet/Higo waterproof connectors and battery discharge plugs.

Replacement Screens

Screens and protective covers for common display models.

Controls2 categories

Throttles

Thumb and twist throttles — connector and voltage signal must match.

Pedal Assist Sensors

Cadence and torque sensors that tell the controller you are pedaling.

Brakes4 categories

E-Bike Brake Pads

Disc pads in the right shape and compound for heavier, faster e-bikes.

Brake Rotors

160/180/203 mm rotors — check mount type (6-bolt vs Centerlock).

Brake Levers

Mechanical and hydraulic levers, including e-bike levers with motor cut-off sensors.

Hydraulic Brake Components

Calipers, hoses, olives, bleed kits and mineral oil / DOT fluid.

Wheels & Tires5 categories

E-Bike Tires

E-bike rated tires with puncture protection in the common 20×4, 26×4, 27.5 and 700c sizes.

Inner Tubes

Schrader/Presta tubes, thorn-resistant and sealant-filled options.

Tubeless Components

Sealant, valves, rim tape and plugs for tubeless setups.

Wheels & Rims

Replacement wheels and rims, including motor-compatible dropout widths.

Spokes & Nipples

Spokes sized for hub-motor flanges and heavy e-bike loads.

Drivetrain6 categories

Cassettes

7–12 speed cassettes; freehub standard must match your wheel.

Freewheels

Thread-on freewheels common on hub-motor e-bikes (often 7-speed).

E-Bike Chains

E-bike rated chains with stronger plates; match your speed count.

Derailleurs

Rear derailleurs, hangers and shifters for common e-bike drivetrains.

Cranksets

Cranks, chainrings and bottom brackets — including PAS-compatible options.

Pedals

Flat, wide-platform and folding pedals with grip for commuting.

Cockpit & Comfort8 categories

E-Bike Lights

Headlights and taillights — battery-powered or wired to the main pack.

Fenders

Full-coverage and fat-tire fenders sized to your wheel and tire width.

Racks (Parts)

Front and rear rack hardware for commuter and cargo setups.

Kickstands

Heavy-duty single and double-leg stands rated for e-bike weight.

Seats & Saddles

Wide comfort saddles, suspension seats and replacement covers.

Seat Posts

Suspension and rigid posts — check diameter (27.2, 30.9, 31.6 mm).

Handlebars & Stems

Riser, swept-back and adjustable stems for a more upright fit.

Grips

Ergonomic and lock-on grips for numb-hand relief.

Buyer guides

Common problems