E-Bike Parts

Hub Motors

Front and rear geared/direct-drive hub motors and wheel kits.

Hub motors power the large majority of e-bikes sold online, including almost every fat-tire, folding and budget commuter bike. They are sealed units built into the wheel, which makes them simple to live with and, when something finally fails, usually replaced as a complete laced wheel rather than rebuilt. Rear hubs are the norm on factory bikes; front hubs are common in conversion kits because they are easy to install and leave the bike's gearing alone.

Geared hub motors have a small, fast-spinning motor driving the wheel through a planetary gearset with an internal clutch, so they freewheel when you pedal unpowered and deliver strong low-speed torque from a light package. Direct-drive hubs are bigger and heavier, have no gears to wear, run nearly silent, and can offer a little regenerative braking, at the cost of slight drag when unpowered. For most riders in Frisco-style terrain, a geared hub in the 500W to 750W range is the practical choice.

Fit is where purchases go wrong. A rear hub must match the frame's dropout width (commonly 135mm, or 170mm and up on fat bikes), the axle style, the disc brake mount, and the type of cogs it accepts (a thread-on freewheel on most, a cassette body on some). Electrically, the motor must suit the controller's voltage and current and its sensor wiring. The cleanest replacement is the same model your bike shipped with, or a kit with its own controller. Mismatched electrical parts can damage a controller or battery; if you are unsure what you have, an E-Bike Assessment is the safe next step.

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48V (1)36V (1)

Hub Motors

36V 350W Geared Front Hub Motor Wheel Kit (generic)

A small geared front hub is the simplest conversion there is: drop the wheel in the fork, mount a battery and controller, and you have an assisted bike without touching the drivetrain. The 350W geared units are light, freewheel without drag, and climb moderately well thanks to internal reduction gears. Listings are generic, so match wheel size, fork dropout width (usually 100 mm), and make sure the kit includes a torque arm or buy one; front dropouts on aluminum and suspension forks do not tolerate motor torque well without one.

Best for: Light assist on a commuter or hybrid with a steel or rigid fork · Riders who want to keep the rear drivetrain stock · Budget conversions

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Sold on Amazon

Hub Motors

Ebikeling 48V 1200W Direct-Drive Rear Wheel Conversion Kit

Ebikeling is one of the few hub-kit brands with a US base and actual customer support, which is why its 48V 1200W direct-drive rear kit shows up so often in forum recommendations. The wheel comes pre-laced in 26, 27.5, 28/700c or 29-inch sizes with the controller, LCD, throttle, PAS sensor and cut-off levers. Direct-drive motors are quiet and durable but heavy, and they have a little magnetic drag when pedaling unpowered. This is a good flat-land commuter kit; for steep climbs a geared hub or mid-drive is smarter.

Best for: Flat to rolling commutes where quiet and durability matter · First-time converters who want a complete kit with support · Steel or aluminum frames with 135 mm rear dropouts

View details & where to buy

Sold on Amazon

How to choose hub motors

Front or rear

Rear hubs handle more power and traction and keep weight over the drive wheel. Front hubs are easier to install in a conversion but put load on the fork, so use a torque arm and stay modest on power.

Geared versus direct-drive

Geared for light weight, free coasting, and low-speed torque. Direct-drive for silence, durability at sustained speed, and light regen. Most street riders should default to geared.

Wheel size and rim width

Laced motor wheels are sold by wheel size (20, 26, 27.5, 29 inch, 700c) and rim width. Match your tire: a 4-inch fat tire needs a wide rim; a 2-inch commuter tire does not.

Dropout width and axle

Measure inside the rear dropouts; 135mm is common on standard bikes, 170mm or wider on fat bikes. Also confirm the axle flats and nut size match your frame and torque arm.

Freewheel or cassette

Most hub motors take a thread-on freewheel (often 7-speed); some have a cassette body. Your drivetrain must match, and a wider freewheel may not clear the frame on a given hub.

Voltage, watts and connector

Match the motor's rating to your controller and confirm the phase-and-hall connector plugs in. If the plug differs, you are into rewiring territory.

Compatibility notes

The motor and controller must match in voltage, current and sensor wiring; confirm on your bike rather than relying on watt ratings alone.
Dropout width is frame-specific; a 135mm hub will not fit a 170mm fat bike frame and vice versa without a different motor.
Freewheel threading on hub motors is standard, but clearance for 8-speed and wider freewheels is not; confirm with the motor maker.
Mismatched electrical parts can damage a controller or battery. If you are unsure, an E-Bike Assessment is the safe next step.

Installation considerations

Fit a torque arm, especially on front hubs and any aluminum dropout; tighten axle nuts to spec and recheck after the first ride.
Transfer the freewheel, disc rotor and tire from the old wheel if the new one ships bare, and check rotor alignment in the caliper.
Route the motor cable with a drip loop so water runs away from the axle exit, and secure it clear of the disc and spokes.
Spin test off the ground before riding; a motor that grinds, stutters or runs backward means a wiring mismatch, not a defective motor.

Maintenance tips

Keep axle nuts torqued and inspect the motor cable where it leaves the axle a few times a year.
Avoid pressure washing the hub; the seals are splash-rated, not jet-rated.
If a geared hub starts clicking or growling under load, have it looked at before the gears strip completely.

Frequently asked questions

How do I measure my dropout width?

With the wheel out, measure the inside distance between the rear dropouts in millimeters. Common values are 135mm on standard frames and 170mm, 175mm or 190mm on fat bikes. Front forks are usually 100mm.

Is a 750W hub motor enough for hills?

For most North Texas terrain, yes; a 750W geared hub with a 48V pack climbs typical overpasses and neighborhood grades comfortably. Sustained steep climbs with cargo favor a mid-drive.

Can I reuse my controller with a new hub motor?

If the new motor has the same voltage rating, a similar current rating, and the same phase-and-hall connector, usually yes. If any of those differ, buy the motor and controller as a matched kit.

Why does my replacement motor stutter?

Almost always a phase or hall wire combination mismatch between motor and controller, or a damaged hall sensor. Stop riding and recheck the wiring rather than forcing it; running a mis-phased motor can damage the controller.

Do hub motors wear out?

Slowly. Bearings and internal nylon gears on geared hubs are the usual wear items, typically after many thousands of miles. Water intrusion is the real killer, so keep the cable exit and seals dry.