E-Bike Parts

E-Bike Lights

Headlights and taillights — battery-powered or wired to the main pack.

Lights on an e-bike come in two flavors. Wired lights run off the bike's main battery through the controller's light output and switch on from the display, so they are never dead when you need them. Self-contained USB-rechargeable lights clamp to any bar or seatpost, need no wiring, and can move between bikes but must be charged. Replacing a broken stock headlight usually means a wired light; adding visibility to a bike without a light port usually means a battery light.

For wired lights, the spec that matters is voltage. Controllers provide a light output at a set voltage, and lights are sold for a matching range: some run on a low-voltage output (commonly 6V or 12V), others on full pack voltage (36V to 52V), and a wide-range light covers several. Feeding a low-voltage light full pack voltage destroys it, and the reverse leaves it dim or dead. The connector is typically a two-pin waterproof plug, and polarity must match. Many wired taillights also take a brake signal so they brighten when you brake.

Brightness is measured in lumens, but beam shape matters more for road riding: a headlight with a cut-off beam lights the road without blinding oncoming traffic. A taillight should be visible from well behind and ideally from the side. Confirm your controller's light output voltage on your bike before buying a wired light, and if you are unsure, an E-Bike Assessment is the safe next step. Mount height and angle matter as much as the light itself; a well-aimed modest light beats a bright one pointed at the sky.

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E-Bike Helmets

Lumos Ultra Smart Helmet

Lumos put a bright front light, a wraparound rear light, and optional turn signals into a helmet that looks surprisingly normal. The Ultra is the mainstream model: lighter and better vented than the original Kickstart, with a wireless handlebar remote for signals and brake lights that react to the helmet's motion. The lights do not replace a proper handlebar headlight for seeing the road, but they put visibility at driver eye level. MIPS is available on some variants. Battery life is measured in hours, not days, so it becomes one more thing to plug in alongside the bike.

Best for: Urban commuters riding at dusk and dawn · Riders who want turn signals without wiring the bike · Visibility-first shoppers

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E-Bike Lights

Wired E-Bike LED Headlight, 12–80V Input (generic)

A headlight wired to the main battery never needs charging, and the wide-input versions (commonly rated 12–80V DC) work on 36V, 48V and 52V systems without a converter. Most come with a 2-pin lead for the controller's light output or a direct battery connection, a fork-crown or handlebar bracket, and some include a horn button. The good ones have a proper cutoff beam so you do not blind oncoming traffic; the cheap ones are floodlights. Check the connector on your bike's light lead (often a 2-pin Julet) and whether your display can switch the light.

Best for: Bikes with a light output on the controller or display · Commuters who forget to charge USB lights · Conversion builds adding lighting

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Electric bike handlebar and display detail

E-Bike Lights

Wired E-Bike Tail Light with Brake Signal, 36V/48V (generic)

Wired tail lights are common original equipment on rack-equipped e-bikes and simple to replace. They mount to the rear rack's standard light tab (or a seat stay bracket), run on the main pack via a 2-pin lead, and the better ones flash brighter when you brake using the brake-sensor signal. Generic units are sold rated for 36V/48V or a wide 12–80V range; check which your bike needs and how many wires the original used (2-wire power only vs 3-wire with brake input). A rack-mount light sits low and is easily blocked by panniers, so keep it visible.

Best for: Replacing a broken OEM rack tail light · Adding a brake light to a bike with brake sensors · Conversion builds with a wired headlight

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How to choose e-bike lights

Wired or battery

Wired for always-on convenience if your controller has a light port; battery lights for flexibility or bikes without a port.

Input voltage range

Match the controller's light output: low-voltage (commonly 6V or 12V) or wide-range (36V to 52V or more). Read the controller or bike spec.

Connector and polarity

Two-pin waterproof plugs are common but pinout varies; match your current light's plug and confirm polarity.

Beam shape and brightness

Cut-off beams for road riding; a few hundred lumens is plenty on lit streets, more for unlit paths.

Mount

Fork crown, handlebar, or rack mount for headlights; seatpost, rack or fender mount for taillights. Make sure the mount fits your bike.

Compatibility notes

Wired light voltage must match the controller's light output; confirm on your bike. A 6V light on a 48V output will burn out immediately.
Two-pin plugs are not standardized for polarity; confirm before connecting.
Brake-activated taillights need a compatible brake signal from the controller or lever; confirm availability.
Mismatched electrical parts can damage a controller or battery. If unsure, an E-Bike Assessment is the safe next step.

Installation considerations

Remove the battery before working on wired lights.
Mount the headlight so the beam aims slightly down at the road and the taillight sits level and unobstructed by bags.
Route wires away from the tire and brake rotor and secure them with ties.
Test switching from the display before riding.

Maintenance tips

Check that mounts stay tight; vibration loosens light clamps.
Keep lenses clean and check seals after wet rides.
For battery lights, recharge on a schedule rather than waiting for the low-battery flash.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know what voltage my bike's light port is?

Check the controller label, the bike's manual, or the spec of the stock light. If none of those are available, measure the output with a multimeter with the light switched on, or get an assessment.

Can I wire a light to the battery directly?

It is not recommended unless you know the light is rated for full pack voltage and you add a fuse and a switch. Using the controller's light output is the safer path.

Are wired lights brighter than USB lights?

Not necessarily; many USB lights are very bright. Wired lights win on convenience because they are always powered and switch from the display.

What is a cut-off beam?

A beam shaped to light the road ahead without a bright spot in oncoming eyes, like a car low beam. It is better for street riding than a round flashlight beam.

Can I add a brake light to my e-bike?

Some wired taillights brighten on braking when connected to a brake signal from the controller or lever; others use an internal motion sensor. Check what your bike can provide.