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Full-size fat e-bikes on 26x4 tires need fenders at least 4.5 inches wide, and the sets sold for them are wide alloy or plastic guards with adjustable stays and, usually, a bracket for a rack tail light. Universal sets fit most rigid and hardtail fat bikes with eyelets, but suspension forks and frames without eyelets need clamp-style stays or a model-specific set. Alloy fenders rattle less and survive better than plastic. Installation takes an hour the first time; take the time to set stays so the fender does not rub the tire under load.
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Best for: E-bikes without a stock rack · Commuters who want MTX bag compatibility · Disc-brake bikes
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CST's BFT (Big Fat Tire) is a widely fitted original-equipment tire on 26x4 fat e-bikes and one of the cheapest ways to replace a worn one. The tread is a medium-knob all-rounder: it handles hardpack, sand and snow acceptably and hums a bit on pavement, which is the normal deal with fat tires. Wire-bead versions are the common, inexpensive ones; folding versions exist at a higher price. If you spend most of your time on the road, a smoother fat tire will roll easier, but for mixed use the BFT is a sensible default.
Best for: Replacing stock tires on 26x4 fat-tire e-bikes · Mixed pavement and trail riding · Budget-minded riders
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Fat folding e-bikes throw an impressive rooster tail, and many ship without fenders or with flimsy ones that crack. Generic 20x4 fender sets are wide plastic or alloy mudguards with stays sized for 20-inch wheels and roughly 4-inch tires, sold as a front and rear pair. Fit varies because fork crown and frame bridge designs differ between brands; sets made for a specific model (Lectric, Heybike, etc.) fit better than universal ones. Expect to bend stays and drill a hole or two. Measure your tire width and check the fender is at least 4.5 inches wide.
Best for: 20x4 fat folders that came without fenders · Replacing cracked stock fenders · Rainy-season commuters
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Wired tail lights are common original equipment on rack-equipped e-bikes and simple to replace. They mount to the rear rack's standard light tab (or a seat stay bracket), run on the main pack via a 2-pin lead, and the better ones flash brighter when you brake using the brake-sensor signal. Generic units are sold rated for 36V/48V or a wide 12–80V range; check which your bike needs and how many wires the original used (2-wire power only vs 3-wire with brake input). A rack-mount light sits low and is easily blocked by panniers, so keep it visible.
Best for: Replacing a broken OEM rack tail light · Adding a brake light to a bike with brake sensors · Conversion builds with a wired headlight
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